Weft knitted fabrics can be roughly classified into single jersey and double jersey (also known as double-knit) based on the use of one or two sets of knitting needles. It is advisable to categorize certain fabric types into dedicated groups for underwear and functional specialty fabrics. Pelerine eyelet, sinker wheel mesh and float plated fabrics are predominantly applied to underwear production, whereas high-pile and plush fabrics fall into the category of specialty textiles.
The majority of continuous-length weft knitted fabrics are produced on large-diameter, multi-feeder latch needle knitting machines, and slit into open-width fabrics during the finishing process. The manufacturing, finishing and conversion processes for knitted textiles, which turn grey fabrics into garments and other end products, prioritize production efficiency and strict quality control. This production characteristic promotes the development of large-scale manufacturing facilities focused on long-batch production.
In post-knitting processing, fabrics need to be kept in a fully relaxed, tension-free state to minimize dimensional distortion and shrinkage issues. In addition to conventional treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and printing, fabric finishing covers a diverse range of technical processes to modify the structural and functional properties of knitted fabrics, including heat setting, stentering, decatizing, napping, shearing, pleating and laminating.
In the cutting workshop, full-length fabrics are stacked into multi-ply layers on long cutting tables with the assistance of a traversing carriage for fabric transportation and spreading. Fabric cutting methods vary greatly, ranging from manual cutting along marked patterns with handheld knives and profile pressing cutters tailored to garment piece outlines, to computer-programmed automatic cutting systems.
When sewing weft knitted fabrics, lockstitch seams widely used for woven fabrics are not ideal due to their poor elasticity. The stretchable double-lock chainstitch is well suited for jersey apparel. By contrast, the three-thread overlock stitch is the most popular option for knitwear assembly. It features excellent elasticity and can neatly trim raw fabric edges while firmly overlocking them to prevent fraying.
For underwear and lingerie that requires superior wearing comfort, flat butt seams formed by five-thread flat lock stitching are the preferred stitching solution